Sophie Pierce

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Whether you are six or sixty, the thrill of hunting for cowries never fades, says Sophie Pierce

 

 

August 1948.  A fifteen year old girl lies on her stomach in a dark, wet Cornish cave, while a storm rages on the beach.  Totally absorbed, she sifts and scrabbles through the cold, gritty sand at the bottom of the rock face.  She is looking for cowrie shells.

 

That was my mother, and now, over fifty years later, I too have the cowrie bug.  It’s an obsession which seems to run in families.  We’re not interested in shells generally, only the cowrie.  So what is it about this tiny, egg-shaped shell, with its ridged porcelain-like surface, and its distinctive central lip, that is so addictive?

 

The obvious thing is that cowries are beautiful; they are also quite hard to find, but that of course is a major part of the appeal.  They are one of the British coastline’s best kept secrets, and cowrie hunters are rather proud of that fact.

 

Sue Vintcent, 68, has an old butterscotch tin full of cowries collected during her childhood.  She uses them as counters in games, and says she’s never been able to resist looking for them when she’s on a suitable beach.  “They’re like little pearls; it’s a challenge to find them because they’re so small and subtle.”

 

Why British cowries are so little known is unclear, because the cowrie itself is found all over the world, in all shapes and forms, and its shape is deeply familiar; indeed tropical ones are often to be found in British seaside gift shops.  Wherever cowries crop up, they are given special significance, being used as money, jewellery and fertility symbols.

 

Dr Graham Oliver is an expert in molluscs at the National Museum of Wales. He says the shells have varying meaning according to where they are found.  “In Africa and the Indian Ocean they are used as currency; across the world they are used in all sorts of ethnographic decorations, particularly as a substitute for the eyes, with the slit of the shell turned outwards.”

 

Here in Britain we don’t have such strong cultural traditions around the cowrie, although it is believed that hundreds of years ago British mariners took them with them on voyages to trade with people they met abroad.  Nevertheless among some families the shells hold an almost mystical appeal, and hours of every holiday will be spent looking for them.

 

Two cowries are found in the United Kingdom: Trivia monacha which has three spots on top, and Trivia arctica which is plain; they are never bigger than about 1cm long.  They are found mainly on the west coast of Britain and Ireland, and are home to a small sea snail, which of course has died naturally by the time the shell appears on the beach. The shells tend to be found at the bottom of rocks and cliffs, among other shells and shingle of a similar size.  Precise locations are fiercely guarded secrets among hunters, but they can be found anywhere along our western coasts from north Cornwall to the north of Scotland.

 

Collecting cowries does not damage the environment.  Douglas Herdson from the National Marine Aquarium in Plymouth says it can be a good way of introducing children to the fascinating world of marine life.  “Picking up empty shells and taking them home is fine, it doesn’t do any harm at all.  Just don’t let youngsters start buying exotic shells in shops, because the animals that lived in them are all too likely to have been killed.”

 

Chris Thomas, 52, a physicist at the University of Leicester, must be one of the UK’s keenest cowrie hunters.  In fact his whole family are completely hooked. They compete fiercely with each other to find the most, and Chris even has a website (www.ion.le.ac.uk/~ect/cowries/) devoted to their cowrie quest.  One of a family of four, Chris’s cowrie habit started as a child, inherited from his maternal great-grandparents.  He says it really took off while they were on holiday in north Wales.

 

“We were staying with some maiden aunts, and started playing with cowries inside on wet days, competing to find them hidden around the house.  We then progressed to looking for cowries on the local beaches, and what started as a childhood diversion has now become a fully fledged obsession.”

 

Chris says his cowrie quest started to get really serious when he was in his thirties.  He now devotes his British holidays to cowrie hunting, mainly in North Wales, and says he has no time for other, more usual, beach activities.  He and his partner Mary spend so much time looking for cowries they even wear strap-on knee pads for the job.

 

Chris has a particular rivalry with his brother Colin, who he says is even keener than him. Colin, an amateur pilot, regularly flies from his home in Oxford to far flung corners of Wales and Scotland for cowrie day trips.  They send each other postcards during their respective hunts, reporting on running totals.

 

Chris says his record cowrie haul was 1700 in three days, collected with his sister Lorraine.  She is another obsessive. Later this year she is getting married on a tiny church on a half tidal island off the coast of Wales, where the family collects cowries.  Naturally, the invitation has real cowries stuck on it.

 

Chris has around eight thousand cowries, which he displays in tall glass spaghetti jars. But not everyone keeps them, and certainly most cowrie hunters don’t have so many.  For most people it’s more a case of taking a few home, and then coming across them years later in a drawer or a button box, and wondering where you found them, or which holiday they were from.

 

This year we’ll be going to Cornwall again, along with my mother and father, and my brothers and their children.  Three generations, aged from 2 to 80, will gather to hunt cowries, lying for hours on damp, gritty beaches.  The thrill of the hunt never fades.